On the Way to Cape Breton

A reader emailed me recently with a unique problem. It seems he is expecting visitors from another part of the world. In itself, this is not unusual. The province is such a well-worn tourist destination, most Nova Scotians have grown used to long-lost friends and relatives landing on their doorstep, especially in the summer.

Maritimers, known for their 'down east hospitality' don't disappoint. They love nothing more than to show visitors a good time, good music and great seafood. In this case, the reader's visitors are from the 'deep south' of the U.S. and well travelled. However, these particular visitors have thrown my new friend a challenge.

It seems in their world travels, this couple has maintained a log of all the best seafood restaurants...and the worst. "Where should I take them?" he asks me. Never at a loss for an answer, I tell him, "I don't know. I was away for 20 years." My idea of great seafood is what I grew up with - thick, creamy seafood chowder, scallops rolled in cornmeal and browned in real butter, fish cakes with green tomato chow, halibut with crispy porkscraps, and lobsters right off the boat and into the pot. Who eats this stuff in restaurants? Better yet, which restaurants serve it?

Undaunted, I ask a Halifax newsgroup: "When you have visitors 'from away', what seafood restaurants do you take them to for good 'down home' fare?". Many suggested McKelvie's and Five Fishermen, both on the Halifax waterfront, or MacAskill's in Dartmouth for the best view. "For real atmosphere", responds one businessman, "if it's storming, I take visiting clients to the Sou'Wester in Peggy's Cove". Now there's a guy with savvy.

Others jump topic to talk about the delectable hot gingerbread with whipped cream served at the Sou'Wester. Another thread starts about the best fish and chip restaurants and the best ones 'outside' of metro. One man wonders why there aren't more great seafood restaurants here, with the abundance of tourists, and fish of course.

Rob, apparently a chef of some kind, asks, "What is 'down home' seafood anyway - tartar sauce made with relish and mayonnaise?" Funny guy. More seriously, he writes, "What you should be looking for are places that do not overcook their seafood". I check out his website, Cyberchef (not bad if you can ignore all the weird slurping noises) "Great care must be taken not to over cook fish and other seafoods" he writes. "Raw seafood or seafood cooked with an acid such as citrus juice can be eaten, but it must be extremely fresh and carefully prepared. The [seafood] should have a translucent center to it".

Now all I have to do is find out which restaurants in town buy see-through fish.

Speaking of 'fresh', one person writes, "Well if they don't want their seafood overcooked send them to Dharma Sushi on Argyle". Ask a simple question. Did I mention that Nova Scotians are also known for their offbeat sense of humour?

Finally, someone tells me to be sure and check out the February special at Boondocks in Fisherman's Cove (Eastern Passage). Order any meal and get another for a toonie (for our non-Canadians, a toonie is a $2 coin). Hey, not bad - and I hear they have excellent clams and chips.

Please help us out with this quickie survey (summer tourist season is looming). Tell us your favourite seafood restaurant (in the Metro area, and in the rest of the province) fish and chip spot and the best place for seafood chowder. Then we'll all know where to take our visitors.

If I've missed your favourite restaurant (these survey forms have their limits), please let me know! I'd love to hear from you!
Gail's Mail
Rob's Seafood Chowder Recipe

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